I’ve enjoyed many of the trails that the UK has to offer, including multiple variations of English and Welsh Coast to Coast routes. I haven’t explored a lot of Scotland, so when I heard about the Scottish National Trail, this seemed like the perfect way for me to explore lots of Scotland’s greatest trails.
The Scottish National trail takes in parts of numerous trails, such as: St Cuthbert’s Way, the Southern Upland Way, and the Rob Roy Way, before eventually joining up with my favourite Scottish trail, the Cape Wrath Trail. Having had such a brilliant experience on my South West Coast Path attempt last year, I was eager to recreate a similar scenario, and I planned to attempt it solo and self-supported.
I poured hours into compiling a spreadsheet that detailed everything that I would need to know for my attempt: from where to refill water, top up food, how many miles I’d be running each day to where I’d be staying. This time, I had the success of the South West Coast Path under my belt, so I knew what worked in terms of kit and food etc. there were a lot fewer ‘unknowns’ and I felt surer of my abilities to complete such a huge challenge.
After a rocky start to the year, taking months to feel fully well again after the Spine Race, I finally felt super fit and back to 100%. I was certain that I wouldn’t start unless I felt strong and spent much of April, May and June unsure of whether such a big attempt was right for me. A few days in, I remember thinking how unbelievably strong I felt, but also how seamlessly everything was going in comparison to my South West Coast Path attempt.
I spent the first day enjoying the Scottish Borders, I noticed the weight of my pack, but it was manageable. The weather became more humid in the next few days; I particularly enjoyed the Pentland Hills and really didn't enjoy a day spent pounding tarmac on the canal between Edinburgh and Milngavie. My feet ached after these first days and it wasn't always possible to carry enough water, but I knew as I travelled further north, the latter wouldn't be an issue as I'd be able to filter water from the hills.
The familiarity of the West Highland Way was pleasant and later I enjoyed exploring new trails and towns whilst travelling across the Cairngorms. My favourite day had to be day eight, I joined the Affric Kintail Way and headed down to Morvich - it's probably my favourite place - a runnable valley surrounded by dramatic mountains.
After climbing into bed after day eight, I was excited to be merging onto the Western variation of the Cape Wrath trail. After completing the race two years ago, I was excited for the wild, rugged beauty that the trail had to offer; little did I know what else it had in store for me!
Rain had lashed down for most of the previous afternoon and evening and on day nine, I left in full waterproofs ready for another wet day. I knew that the rivers on the Cape Wrath were to be approached with care once there had been lots of rainfall and had heard of many people getting stuck in bothies due to impassable rivers. I was fine getting wet; I could wade with care (I thought).
As I approached the Falls of Glomach, I could hear the water before I could see it: it literally roared. As I stood on the bank of the first crossing, I realised that the rivers were in spate. The ferocity at which the water was flowing meant that there was nowhere safe to cross. Turning back hadn’t seemed to be an option; I think I would say that this was my biggest learning point from the trip. I’ve always had a bit of a love for the type of adventure that feels borderline dangerous but now know that I perhaps shouldn’t have taken the risk of crossing that first river. I looked downstream once I’d managed to haul myself out and was certain that a roaring river, was not the way I wanted to go.
That river was not the last of my worries. Of course, every crossing that I met was similarly uninviting. I climbed high on rough, trackless ground trying to find more suitable crossings but eventually was boxed in by uncrossable rivers. Plan A, B and C failed and eventually I knew I just needed to get down to safety. A specific road ended up being any road that I could get to, due to yet more impassable rivers wherever I turned.
I didn’t have time to be upset or grieve the end of my self-supported attempt that day, as I was so relieved to be down on tarmac, safe and in one piece. Thumbing down a lift, I squeezed in the back of the van of two cyclists and told them about my adventure. Luckily, I managed to find some accommodation that night, I peeled off my saturated clothes and planned the next days.
My partner and dog rushed up to help with logistics as I was now miles off route. I planned the next days carefully and asked him to meet me at various points so we could see how the rivers were; I didn’t want another day like yesterday.
I loved the next few days. The sun came out, my dog Murphy joined me for some miles, and I was able to look up and enjoy the beauty of the Cape Wrath Trail.
"My favourite bit of kit was the TRAILTALON MAX, these were amazing across a range of terrains and the uppers still look new after 500 miles!"
Sometimes, I have a fleeting thought that I put so much effort in and was very nearly there, but I’m comforted by the fact that this was out of my control and by the fact that I still made the most of the experience. I had eight amazing days of everything going to plan, of feeling strong and able to complete the trail in the set time and of doing everything under my own steam.
I had eleven days of exploration, beautiful scenery, moments just for me and an incredible adventure. For me, this was the experience of a lifetime, it absolutely confirmed that self-supported journeys are my ‘thing’ and I can’t wait to get planning the next one. P.S, a snorkel and armbands are now on my essential kit list.
Success is so personal to you. Often, we’re obsessed with winning or gaining records but to me, success is embedded in what I gained from the experience. Although the general response was ‘oh well, you can try again’, I’m happy with the experience that I had and now want to pour energy into exploring a new trail.
The highlights? The wildlife, the views, the snacks, the interactions with strangers, the space to be alone and reflect.
I love that I barely need to think about kit as I know what works for me. I used my trusty 20L pack, STORMSHELL, TRAILPANT, ¾ tight, hairband, merino wool socks and always take my Performance Hybrid with me. My favourite bit of kit was the TRAILTALON MAX, these were amazing across a range of terrains and the uppers still look new after 500 miles!
Next, I’ll be heading to Tennessee in October for Big’s Individual Backyard Championships – wish me luck!
